How to have the perfect autumn city break in Paris

An insider travel guide to the City of Lights – from gilded historic monuments to the glimmering Seine

The uniform sandstone of the Haussmann buildings, the abundance of gilded historic monuments, and the glimmering Seine and its elegant bridges have arguably made Paris the most recognisable and romanticised cityscape in the world. But though the city wears its history – of monarchy, revolution, revolt and artistic innovation – with characteristic style, it is also increasingly looking to the future and outwards to the rest of the world.
Those looking to explore the city’s rich heritage can spend long afternoons getting lost in the Louvre or wandering the Musée d’Orsay, or ducking in and out of Paris’s countless historical churches (many of which were reinvented as Republican temples after the Revolution). For more contemporary tastes, there’s plenty of exploring to be done in the less tourist-trodden outer arrondissements – from arts venues on the sloping streets of Belleville to the boutique hotels and reinvented dive bars of Pigalle.
For further Paris inspiration, see our guides devoted to the French capital’s best hotels, restaurants, nightlife, bars, things to do, free things to do and shopping. 
As part of Heritage Days (September 21-22), usually off-limits monuments all around the capital are opened to the public, including the president’s Elysée Palace. Some ticketed museums offer free entry, like the Conciergerie where Marie-Antoinette was imprisoned, which featured in a memorable scene of the 2024 Paris Olympics Opening Ceremony.
The Centre Pompidou, a mainstay on the Paris cultural scene, is currently winding down its activities before closing for huge renovations until 2030. Until November 4, see “Comics – 1964-2024”, a world-spanning retrospective of one of France’s most loved art forms. Ride the escalators to the top and admire the view one more time before doors close.
Paris’s new openings are always looking for new ways to impress and delight. And Hôtel Hana has been creating a particular buzz, thanks to its mix of classic French elegance and Japanese influence which extends to the beautiful art deco-style rooms and the high-end gastronomic restaurant.
Start the day at the Luxembourg Garden and take in the lines of plane trees and ornate parterres, with the top of the Eiffel Tower visible in the distance. Come out on the north side of the park, being sure to clock the stunning Medici Fountain on your right.

Go next to Rue de Seine, via Place de l’Odéon, stopping to browse in the second-hand bookshops and independent galleries that punctuate this historically bohemian district. 
For lunch, try the gourmet galettes at Breton crepe house Breizh Café or Ippudo for some of the best ramen in Paris. Find more of the city’s best restaurants in our guide.

Follow Rue de Seine down to the river, emerging in front of the French Institute building, taking in the view across Pont des Arts to the Louvre across the river. Book ahead to visit Sainte Chapelle, the resplendent 12th-century chapel built by Louis IX (you’ll feel like you’re inside a giant jewellery box).

Afterwards, stop for a coffee in the ornate environs of 1920s café Les Deux Palais. Cross Île de la Cité arriving in front of Notre-Dame; steal a moment of calm in the gardens that run along the right of the church, before crossing on to the Left Bank to visit Shakespeare & Company, the notable English-language bookshop frequented by the Beat poets and still a hub for literary types.
Wander up Quai de Montebello, cross back onto the charming Ile Saint-Louis and stop for a proper hot chocolate at Café Saint-Régis.
Head back on to the Left Bank and wander the Jardin des Plantes botanical gardens; if you’re travelling en famille, consider a visit to the zoo. 
Prop yourself up at the bar of L’Avant Comptoir. Ask for wine recommendations and have fun choosing from the menu of French small plates – go for the mackerel with grapefruit and horseradish and the pork trotter terrine. Or, if it’s cocktails you’re after, try Prescription Cocktail Club for an inventive tipple from the much-lauded Experimental Group. Find more of the city’s best bars in our guide.

Finish with a classic film in the romantic surrounds of the Filmothèque in the Latin Quarter. If you still want to go on, end the night with live jazz in the atmospheric cellars at Caveau de la Huchette.
Let’s head to the Marais. Start at the ornate 17th-century square, Place des Vosges. Warm up with a café crème at the elegant Café Hugo on the north-east corner, or visit the house of its novelist’s namesake on the south-east corner, Maison de Victor Hugo.

Exit to Rue Saint-Antoine via the south-west edge of the square through the secluded courtyards of 17th-century mansion Hôtel de Sully. Head into the heart of the Marais along Rue Vieille du Temple.
For lunch, try a tasty salad served with brio at Le Pick-Clops or if you’re in a street-food mood, opt for falafel in the historical heart of Paris’s Ashkenazi Jewish community; L’As du Fallafel is the most famous and undeniably delicious, but be prepared for long queues. Walk it off in the Jardin des Rosiers – Joseph-Migneret (Rue des Rosiers), a quiet park hidden (like many good things in Paris) in plain sight. Find more of the city’s best things to do in our guide.
Head west towards the Centre Pompidou from Rue des Rosiers via Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, a hub for gay bars and businesses. Stop, on the way, for ice cream at award-winning Une Glace à Paris, known for its inventive flavour combinations, such as blackberry and jasmine.

Be sure to book ahead for an exhibition at the Pompidou. Make a pitstop at the top of the remarkable post-modern building for an (admittedly, eye-wateringly expensive) drink at Le Georges restaurant and take in the wraparound views.  
Next, head west towards Les Halles. Turn right up Rue Montorgueil and soak in the sights and smells of this traditional market street – be sure to stop by the picture-perfect Anaïs florist and drool over beautiful pastry at historical Patisserie Stohrer.
For chic shopping, explore nearby Rue Tiquetonne and Rue Bachaumont for vintage finds and local designers. Rest your weary feet with a drink in the Instagram-ready courtyard restaurant at Hoxton Paris.
Round off your Paris break with a touch of schmaltz (because, pourquoi pas allow yourself a little?) and take a cruise along the Seine in one of the iconic Bateaux Mouches (Port de la Conférence), taking in the floodlit Musée d’Orsay, Louvre and Notre-Dame and the reflected yellow glow on the river. It may feel a little touristy, but gliding along the water on one is never disappointing.

The neighbourhood of Pigalle, home of the Moulin Rouge, has historically been characterised by its bright lights and sex shops (which are still there). But in more recent years the area has also become a burgeoning spot for hipster nightlife with the opening of boutique hotels such as Hôtel Amour, Grand Pigalle and Le Pigalle, and relaxed-cool bars.

There are rarely long queues to climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower – and it’s a great way to discover the monument.
Climbing Paris’s monuments is a wonderful way to get a view over the city, but the city’s natural high points can also offer spectacular vistas – from the hill of Montmartre to the slopes of the Buttes Chaumont park in the north of the city.
Head east to the slopes of Belleville. Try the jazz brunch (all-you-can-eat indulgence and live music: a winner) at La Bellevilloise and climb to the top of Parc de Belleville for Eiffel Tower views. 
You don’t need to be staying at Paris’s most expensive five-star addresses to get a feel for them: try a drink at Bar Hemingway at The Ritz Paris or a tipple with a view at Le Rooftop at The Peninsula Paris.
In recent years, Paris’s town hall has added hundreds of miles of cycle routes to the city. Some large thoroughfares, such as Rue de Rivoli, have been transformed into cycle superhighways. Pedal like a Parisian by hiring a Vélib city bike, or opt for pay-per-use electric bike rentals.
You can come to Paris any time but the atmosphere is quite different at different times of year. Winter is a time for festivals and feasting on game and oysters. Spring and early summer are the time to make the most of city parks and café terraces, punctuated by the Fête de la Musique on June 21 and the military parade and fireworks of July 14. In August the capital slows down and a beach takes over the quays, some people love it for the feeling of calm, but many restaurants are closed and you may be hard-pushed to find a Parisian around. The autumn rentrée starts with a burst of energy for the new cultural season, big exhibition openings and new restaurant arrivals.

Le Royal Monceau Raffles is a contemporary take on the ultra-luxe palace-grade hotel, with Philippe Starck-designed décor and fusion food offerings from Nobu Matsuhisa, as well as rotating art exhibits and a stylish ‘concept store’. The hotel is on Avenue Hoche, one of the roads radiating from the Arc de Triomphe on Place de l’Etoile.

Hôtel Des Grands Voyageurs is located in the heart of the Left Bank, where the chic style of Saint-Germain meets New York meets Rome at this Italian-designed slinky address, just outside the tourist throng but well placed for exploring. The restaurant, styled as a ‘transatlantic brasserie’, serves seriously good food while the two bars are chic spots for late-night cocktails.

The pretty little Hotel Henriette makes a cosy and romantic base for a city break in Paris, with some of the bohemian Left Bank’s most charming attractions a short walk away. It is an Instagrammer’s dream. Designer Vanessa Scoffier has a background in fashion journalism and her good taste and keen eye for detail can be seen throughout the hotel. 

Add a touch of Paris décor chic to your homestead with a designer piece from Maison Sarah Lavoine. Or, choose from one of the tastiest cheese selections in the city at La Fermette on Rue Montorgueil and vacuum-pack your selection to bring home.

Hannah, originally from London, spent years working out the intricacies of French grammar before moving to Paris, where she works as a journalist specialising in French culture and society. She enjoys cycling Paris’s avenues and boulevards on her trusty bike, eavesdropping in café terrasses and visiting the weekly flea market at her local, Puces de Saint-Ouen.
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